Changing Oil and Filter

If you live within a city-limits, be sure to check with the city manager's office to see if they have any regulations about working on your own vehicle in your yard or driveway. Thanks!
Park your vehicle on a level surface and put blocks of wood or bricks behind the rear tires.
Jack the front of the vehicle up enough for you to get under it.
Be SURE to put jacks stands under the body (behind the front wheels) or put some timbers under the tires and let the weight off the jack.
Put a piece of cardboard, or an old blanket, underneath the vehicle to lie down on (I hate working on the *ground*). ļ
Get a pail or pan that will hold at least 6 or 7 quarts of liquid to drain the oil into.
It's a mess having a pan that holds 4 quarts and letting 5 quarts of old oil running into it! ƒ¼
You will need a wrench to remove the oil pan drain plug. PLEASE, don't use one of those "adjustable" things. All they do is "round" the shoulders on the plug. Get the proper tool.
You need a filter wrench that will fit your oil filter.
Be sure the engine has had time to cool down. Hot oil will burn you, and burn you, and keep on burning you! ƒ¼
Now, the best way to go about this is to see where the oil filter is. If it will be just above you, leave it until last. Old oil will *drip* on you (yes!)
Put the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug and remove the plug, slowly. Once you have it loose, you can remove it with your fingers, it's easier.
After the oil stops running out of the oil pan, put the plug back in by hand. Don't force it, make sure you can twist it up easy, you don't want to "cross-thread" it (you would be looking for me then!).
Tighten it with the wrench. When you get it "snug", put a small amount of "pressure" on the wrench. Not too much, but we don't want it to leak, either!
Now, move the drain pan (slowly) under the oil filter.
Take the filter wrench and slip it over the oil filter, being sure you have the handle where it will tighten up on the filter when you pull the handle toward you.
Pull the filter wrench handle toward you. Sometimes this might take quite a lot of pressure. When the oil filter breaks loose you can remove the wrench and turn it with your hand.
Have on cloth gloves or use paper towels because oil will probably run down the side of the filter.
Continue to twist the filter off and put it into the drain pan.
Unless your oil filter is positioned upside-down, you want to pour fresh oil into it.
Be sure to put oil on the rubber gasket. That protects the seal and makes it easier to remove next time.
As you put the new filter onto the threaded spout, be VERY careful not to "cross-thread" it. If you can twist it easily, you're ok.
Once you get it snug, tighten it as much as you can with your hand (unless you're a football player).
Now, I usually take the filter wrench and turn it about an inch, or less. You don't want to get it too tight, it will squeeze the mating material and cause oil to seep from around it.
Now, jack the car up and take the supports out and let the vehicle down on its tires.
Raise the hood and remove the oil filler cap (the 710 if your cap is backward and has OIL written on it) ļ.
Most vehicles take 5 quarts (with filter) to refill them. Some take only 4.5 quarts.
I usually put in 4 quarts, crank the engine, check the oil pressure gauge, or light; check for leaks underneath the vehicle (plug/filter), then turn the engine off.
Let the vehicle set for about 15-20 minutes.
Pull the oil dipstick out and wipe it off. Replace it and pull it back out and look where the oil level is.
If it's just a quarter to a half inch from the "Full" mark, I'll add only a half-quart of oil, then check it again.
You will need to take the old oil and filter to a repair shop or a disposal location to discard it.
PLEASE, don't pour it out on the ground! EPA!!! Remember, I TOLD you so! ļ
So, you don't have to wait in line at the *quick* places to get your oil changed anymore! Never, ever, again.

So, Your Starter Is Just Clicking

Does you starter make a *click* sound when you try to start your vehicle?

Each time you turn the ignition switch to start, does the starter just *click* one time?

That is probably the starter solenoid.

If it goes, *click-click-click-click*, and so on, it may just be a low battery.

A low battery that makes the starter *click* a few times doesn't have enough *juice* in it to turn the starter over to turn the flywheel over to turn the crankshaft over to make the engine start...phew!

A simple way to tell if the battery is at fault is to turn the headlights on and turn the ignition switch to start.

If the lights go out, then the battery is probably at fault.

Course, you'll have to run real fast after you hit the start position in order to see if the lights go out...or have someone out there watching for you.:-)

You can purchase a small inexpensive battery charger at most malls, or parts store.

The best way to use a *trickle* chargers is to charge the batter all night, or all day, whichever pleases you.

You can try charging the battery. If it runs down again, then you need to do something.

Remove the battery terminals from the battery post, if you have the *post* type, and clean the post and the inside of the cable clamp.

If you have the side mount just loosen the 8mm bolt and clean the terminal where it comes into contact with the battery. Clean the part on the battery, too. :-)

Sometimes the battery will build up a lot of corrosion on the outside of the cable clamp.

When this happens, usually, the inside part of the clamp and post will create a hard metallic-like surface.

This stops the flow of electricity from the alternator to the battery.

When you use the battery's reserve, it's gone, no more being put in.

If the vehicle does crank, it will run off the alternator, which ain't good. :-(

If cleaning the post and recharging the battery doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new one.

Don't run to the nearest *convenience store* and buy a battery.

Take your battery to a place that sells batteries and have it checked.

If it is gone to where old dead batteries go, then you will have to purchase a new one.

You may have other problems...like the alternator; the tension on the alternator belt... several things could make the battery be low...did you leave the parking lights on when you parked, to go shopping? :-)

Flush The Cooling System On Your Car, or Truck

Your cooling system should be flushed every other year. No, I'm not crazy, but with all the new chemicals they use today, it will literally eat up the rubber hoses and deteriorate the heater core, and the radiator core.

Have a drain pan under the drain plug, or the lower radiator hose, to catch the old fluid. EPA doesn't want you to let it run out onto the ground--it will contaminate Earth!

Make sure the engine is cold! Hot antifreeze burns dramatically and it will burn you, too!

If you can get to the drain plug, (sometimes it's hard to get to) you can put a piece of 3/8 inch hose onto it. Put the other end into the drain pan and open the drain plug. This will let the fluid empty into the drain pan--that way all the fluid will go into the drain pan and not spread out and drip all over the place. Remove the radiator cap.

If you want, and it's much faster, you can remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Use caution, though, you don't want to break the neck on the radiator--that's a no-no.

It is better to have the drain plug opened, though, when you start to flush.

A word of caution! Antifreeze/summer coolant is very toxic. Don't get it on the body paint, or on your skin. Wash it off with water! Another thing, it will kill your pets if they drink it, so keep them, and children, away from it, remember, I warned you!:-)

Some vehicles have a vent plug. It's located near the thermostat housing (where the upper radiator hose is connected to). Open this to vent: the fluid will empty out better.

Now will be a good time to inspect the hoses. Look at the heater hoses: are they swelled near the clamps? Do they feel hard, or real soft? If so, replace them. The same with the upper and lower radiator hoses. If your vehicle has a by-pass hose (from the water pump to the thermostat housing) check it also. Don't be skimpy here, a little for a hose now will save a lot later. Replace the hose clamps, too, if they need replacing. I hate those "clip" type, and they are usually in need of replacing.

You can get a "flush kit" at most auto parts stores. Read the instruction as to how to install it. Most of the time you can cut the heater hose going to the waterpump and install it there. They are designed to be a permanent fixture: you can leave it hooked up.

After you have installed the flush kit you need to hook up the garden hose to the fitting. It might be best for you to remove the thermostat, as cool water will close it and restrict flow.

Turn the water faucet on, not too much, and leave the radiator cap off and the drain open. If water spews from the vent plug opening, put it back in.

Crank the engine and let it idle. Watch the fluid coming from the 3/8 tubing. When the fluid is clear as water, ha, you can turn the faucet off and then turn the ignition switch off.

You may need two drain pans to catch all the fluid, plus, you will need to find a place in your city to dispose the fluid: a repair shop, or disposal plant. Do not pour it out on the ground: EPA!!!

Let the vehicle cool down. After the engine is cold you can turn the water faucet on again and reflush. There is no need to restart the engine, just let the water run through the block, heater core, and radiator. Let this go for about two or three minutes, then you can turn the water off and remove the garden hose. Put the cap that came with the kit over the spout after you remove the garden hose...you won't have to remove the flush kit, just leave it there for the next time.

They make chemicals to flush systems that have a lot of rust and deposits in them, but this procedure will work in most cases.

Be sure you have the lower radiator hose clamp tight (if you removed it), and have the drain plug tight (remove the hose if you put one on).

Now you can add your antifreeze/summer coolant. Depending on where you live, most vehicle manufacturers recommend a 50/50 solution. Look in your owner's manual and see what they recommend. If your vehicle holds two gallons of coolant, then you want to put in one gallon of coolant and one gallon of water.

If your vehicle doesn't have a vent plug, you can fill the radiator to the top, then crank the engine. Note: If you removed the thermostat, be sure to reinstall it, I'd recommend installing a new one.

After you crank the engine, let it idle. Watch the radiator filler spout, water may overflow. If it does, put the cap back on. Feel of the upper radiator hose. When it gets warm to hot, then the thermostat has opened and you can remove the radiator cap slowly. If no water tries to escape, then you can remove it and add water.

Most vehicles of late have a plastic reservoir. After you have the radiator full you can fill the reservoir to the line on the side of the container, "full cold", with water.

Now, start the engine again and let it idle. Look for leaks (repair them if you have any) and watch the temperture guage. If you have a light you will have to feel of the upper radiator hose to tell when the engine is at operating temperture: the hose will be very hot. Most vehicles run a 190o thermostat, so you won't be able to hold the hose very long, unless you're a hot-metal worker. :-)

No leaks? Temperture ok? Fluid level full? You're a genius! You are ready to do some more "maintenance" on your vehicle, and you don't have to take it to the repair shop.